No, the water level in the overflow is controlled by the gate valve on the the main, full siphon, line. If you have any other questions don't hesitate to reach out! The was very effective. If you're planning to use powerheads that will create a standing wave within the display - please test the overflow with the maximum wave frequency to confirm your siphon is great enough and that it will not overflow and will not cause a crashing noise as the water sloshes through. You don't need to glue anything in the overflows and you can change them whenever you want. My recommendation would be to buy some cheap 1" pipe and cut it to length to find the sweet spot you're looking for. It looks like the Eshopps overflows all use 1" PVC for the drains. It has a lowered box compared to the weir and at high flowrates this creates a very noticeable noise. If they are equal in height the overflow will be truly silent - this is what one of the major complaints of the synergy overflow is. The purpose of making the adjustments is to ensure you have proper water height in the overflow box that matches the water height within the display. The size of your return pump and the flowrate you're looking to achieve with this overflow will really determine what heights these pipes should be at. It looks like you might be overthinking this issue just a tad! The height of the full siphon and trickle drain isn't really a specific height as long as they function correctly. There’s also an infographic stating that the height between the emergency and primary should be at least 6”. You see differing opinions on if the secondary needs to be higher than the primary or if they can be the same height. I’m uncertain of the correlation between the height of the primary and secondary drains. The red tube is what came with the box, but I’m thinking that it may be too short because that also means that the primary and secondary drains have to be shorter yet. View attachment I saw a thread over on R2R where you helped someone with the appropriate heights of each drain. The external box is right under the top brace. I’m using the same model as what we had before, an eShopps Eclipse L bean animal set up. We didn’t set it up optimally the first time so I want to make sure we get it right this time and not having to do almost daily adjustments to the gate valve on the primary drain. But I have a way to deal with it if it is too low.Hey everyone, I’m at the point in my re-build on my 125 gal where I’m doing the overflow box. ![]() The only thing I see is that the internal weir has notches that may make the water line visible below the rim. ![]() Shouldn't take much, just drill the holes and attach. ![]() This unit looks well worth the $119 and is probably the best thing going for overflows of this size! I'm impressed! Can't wait to install it. Edges are all flame polished and the glue has no crazing. The construction is top notch looks like 1/4" plexiglass on all the parts. The packing is excellent, no scratches, no dings well packed! It includes a plexiglass hole template all the bulkheads, gaskets, emergency overflow pipe and the hole saw. They seemed really spendy for what you get! Then I found the Eclipse. I looked at them all, Glass Holes, CPR, etc etc. But I wasn't sure I wanted to do it again. I cut it all up and glued it up and installed it and it is still working great. The acrylic, hole saw and bulkhead cost me around $100. Last year I spent about 10 hours designing/CADing in internal weir and overflow for a bean animal. ![]() I'm a fan of drilled tanks, they are just so much easier to deal with. Let me start by saying, I don't work for Eshopps, was not asked to do this-I paid for this out of my own pocket and ordered from Thought I would put this in the general section since maybe newbies don't head to the filtration section.
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